One of the biggest enemies of fly anglers in saltwater is a quiet and patient killer. No, it’s not the sharp toothed monsters that patrol the waters…it is the water itself and the salty air, and their effects on our gear. The opponent is corrosion.

Corrosion occurs when bare metal (such as commonly used aluminum) is exposed to salt water, or when two dissimilar metals contact each other in the saltwater (serving as an electrolyte). The latter causes electrolysis to occur, creating a battery between the two metals, creating the removal of molecules from one metal and a buildup of molecules on the other. The result is an unsightly bulge on one metal that can build up and actually bend the other metal. This usually occurs in reels, since screws, gears and the like are typically made of a different metal than the reel’s frame.

Rod and reel manufacturers have spent a great deal of time and money in an attempt to neutralize the effects of saltwater corrosion on our most important weapons. For instance, line guides are sometimes lined with porcelain, totally unharmed by corrosion. Rod designs allow for easy cleaning and materials have been used to help eliminate corrosion. Reel makers, on the other hand have a much greater challenge.

By design, reels are full of tiny places into which water can creep. Each hole in the spool, crevices around adjustable drags, and every place a screw is put in are just a few examples. The manufacturers put hours of thought into maintaining a balance between the reel’s weight, function, features and the amount of corrosion protection they maintain. Some adaptations that help fight corrosion are using one piece frames, eliminating seams, and finishes applied to the reel’s parts. Reels can have protective coatings applied in the form of enamel paint, powder coats and anodized finishes, each with their own benefits and drawbacks, proven in the manufacturers rigorous testing processes. Regardless, wise consumers will make certain that their salt gear incorporates one of these protective methods. Despite their hard work in preventing corrosion as best they can, manufacturer’s biggest complaint is that very few anglers take the time to care for their sacred equipment. With all of the care that rod and reel makers take to prevent corrosive damage, savvy fly fishers still need to constantly maintain their gear to ensure a life of smooth service. By following a few simple procedures, you can be nearly certain that you will never have to face the nightmare of a corroded reel.

After you spend a day in the salt, a few minutes of care can save years of headache and heart break. The first thing you should do when you return, is to remove your reel from you rod and give them both a liberal rinse in fresh water. Some of the club members even invite their rod to shower with them, ensuring a good rinse. You may want to use a soft cloth to help loosen the nearly invisible salt deposits on the reel seat and line guides of your rod. Then, remove the spool from your reel and dunk both it and the frame in a bath of warm, soapy water. Leave the items submerged for a short time, perhaps while you enjoy a nice evening meal. After a good soaking, use a soft brush (old toothbrush works great) to go over the most vulnerable small spaces around the reel. This may be a good time to rinse and scrub the salt residue from your reel case as well. Remember, even if the reel was not put into the case, the air around the coast is also full of salt. (Food for thought: The coast is one place where leather reel cases are a big no no. Leather tends to hold salt for a long time, which could negate all you have done to clean and protect your reel. Neoprene cases are a much better choice for avid saltmen.) After a good scrubbing, you should rinse the reel off with clean fresh water. That’s it for the hard part! Now all you have to do is lay the reel on a flat surface to dry. It sometimes helps to flip the reel over every couple of hours to make sure everything drains. As you awake with cloudy thoughts of the next big catch, your reel should be dry. Before you put your reel away or take it back to the surf, you should always put some sort of protectant on the metal (liquid wax or some other sort of spray lubricant). Be sure to grease or oil the reel’s moving parts if they need it. That’s it!

With just a little effort each time you hit the salt, your equipment will last years longer and perform better the entire time, making each and every trip a better experience. Now go hit the flats and find the brutes!